Miki Dora once said, “Waves are the ultimate illusion. They come out of nowhere, instantaneously materialize and just as quickly they break and vanish. Chasing after such fleeting mirages is a complete waste of time. That is what I choose to do with my life.”
Hearing this, it occurred to me that relationships can be very similar. I surf relationships just as I do the waves each morning at Lincoln–even when I get knocked on my ass by one, I’ll get right back on the board. Wiping the seaweed and salt water out of my face, I’ll paddle back out into the abyss and wait for it–the perfect wave. One that’s going to get me safely back to shore and leave me exhilarated, renewed, and ready to tackle anything.
Those aren’t easy to find though–at least not when you’re in packed waters, competing for almost anything even remotely ride-able. I honestly can’t remember the last time I caught something that didn’t leave something to be desired. I can’t say I ever will. I’ve come to learn that there will always come a point where the wave vanishes…when the person you’re with disappoints you and sends you flying off your board and the only thing you can really do is cover your head so the fins don’t slice like razors and leave you badly scarred (or worse)…
But it never deters me. Not in the water. And not in life. I won’t stop. I can’t stop. It’s what I’ve chosen….




